From as young as infants, we begin mentally assigning gender to clothing. 

It's not just colour: Unicorns are for girls; trucks for boys. Bunnies for girls; dinosaurs for boys. 

I can recall shopping trips growing up where I would peruse the vividly coloured skirts, glittery dresses and fluffy coats of the girl’s section and giggle at the thought of approaching the boy’s side of the store. 

A decade on and in the throes of re-defining my gender identity, I often find myself dressing in unisex, or even 'mens', clothing. 

Rather than giggling in embarrassment about the prospect of looking like a 'boy', instead, I’ve started to wonder why clothing is gendered in the first place? And what would the fashion industry look like without gender?

Although categorising clothing as ‘men’s’ and ‘women’s’ is still the norm, in some spaces, fashion is beginning to break free of the binary – as am I.

Over the years, genderless fashion has taken centre stage on the bodies of famous faces, performers and creatives alike – mostly in the form of performative androgyny.

Now, the style is becoming increasingly popular thanks to a movement of non-binary, trans and queer folk pushing the industry to break free of gender labels and to think outside of arbitrary structures set around dressing.

What is the de-gendering fashion movement?

The idea behind the movement is to take away all preconceived gendered notions surrounding items of clothing. Traditionally, this manifests as dresses and skirts reserved for femme presenting people, and pant suits for masculine folk.  

Although genderless clothing has a rich history, one of the earliest examples of genderless dressing within the fashion industry we know today came about in the 1920s when influential women like Coco Chanel began styling pieces from the men’s section.

In recent times, we’ve seen the fight for trans and queer rights grow tenfold – and with this fight many have noticed the need for a change in collective thought around gender.

Gender roles are evolving - they’re not as they have always appeared and that’s a good thing, not only for the communities this change impacts, but also for fashion.

According to WWD, 56% of Gen Zers are already dressing outside of their assigned genders, so clearly the appetite for this sort of fashion is there. 

Not only are young consumers using their purchasing power to push against the strict gender binary, but they’re also vintage shopping, upcycling and feeding into subversive trends such as ‘Avant Apocalypse’ to explore their relationships with gender.

By making use of existing clothing to subvert traditional dressing and allow for genuine gender expression, these young fashion folk are shining a spotlight on why genderless design can be an asset to the sustainable fashion realm.

Aiming for a fashion industry free of gender archetypes means that items of clothing can technically be worn by anyone from either end of the spectrum.

In this version of fashion utopia, pieces have far more potential for wear by a wider audience, which in turn, has a positive impact on the sustainable fashion sector. 

By increasing the potential for wear of a single garment, the focus will need to shift towards durable designs while reducing the turnover of worn clothes and desire to buy new.

Both of these factors essentially help to minimise the already exorbitant amount of waste created by the industry by creating fewer disposable garments, instead designing pieces to withstand the test of time.

Not only fabulous for the environment long term, but this impact may also encourage consumers to invest in well-made items of clothing that represent their values.

Oftentimes brands committed to cultivating an inclusive community of consumers from all ends of the gender spectrum are also progressive in other ways. 

Designing thoughtfully with sustainability in mind is just one of those aspects.

Industry leader for sustainable and ethical fashion ratings, Good On You, touted brands such as A.BCH, Stella McCartney, Afends, AndAll, and tonlé as ahead of the curve in the way of environmental, ethical and gender neutral designs. 

Green brands such as Reborn by Homie, Twoobs, Hew Clothing (pictured above) and Kloke, all also carry genderless styles and design with sustainable consideration.

While it’s a question not simply answered, genderless fashion can mean something different for everyone. 

For many, dressing without regard for the gender binary is incredibly freeing. For me, it looks like investing in genderless denim from small brands, adding to my oversized shirt and blazer collection, and leaning on accessories to express myself over traditionally gendered shapes. 

Playing with traditionally masculine silhouettes is a way for me to explore the fluidity of my gender presentation, while also happily opting for more feminine ensembles when it feels right. 

Advocates for the genderless fashion movement, online non-binary creators, Alok Vaid-Menon, Deni Todorovič, and Sandy McIntyre (pictured above), are living examples of what de-gendered fashion has the potential to be – joyous beyond bounds.

To truly embrace the diversity of us all, while simultaneously fostering sustainable design and production - the fashion industry has some catching up to do.

Whether you’re interested in experimenting with your relationship with your gender, are looking for ways to support the gender-diverse community, or simply searching for a new staple piece for your wardrobe – investing in genderless brands and designs is a way forward for the industry as a whole, not just a select few. 

Because clothing isn’t just for those who fall onto either side of the binary, it’s for everyone. 

While categorising clothing as ‘men’s’ and ‘women’s’ is still the norm, in some spaces, fashion is beginning to break free of the binary. We look at how this rising push against traditional gendered dressing as self expression is positively impacting the sustainable fashion sector.

How the rising push against traditional gendered dressing as self expression is positively impacting the sustainable fashion sector

What is Genderless Fashion

My first purchase after I graduated and joined full-time employment was a leather handbag. 

I’d been anticipating the purchase for months, lusting after a particularly compact bucket design - not too big, not too small. 

For me, my expensive new handbag indicated I had levelled up in the world; no longer a poor university student but a woman on a mission. I perceived leather to be a superior marker of success, and without a bag in my arms, I hadn’t fully transitioned into adulthood. 

I wasn’t alone in this thinking, with the leather goods industry valued at USD $350 billion in 2020, growing at a rate of 5.5% annually. 

While fashion is consumed with the sustainable frontier, leather, and its faux counterparts, have remained largely forgotten from the conversation. 

Narratives within the industry have predominantly been connected with animal welfare only. Vegan alternatives are typically considered sub-par in texture, appearance and quality, causing little rivalry. 

The opinion has always been divided: opt for an animal by-product, or choose a plastic-based alternative - with equally harmful environmental impacts. 

As a self-described flexitarian, making the most sustainable choice has felt confusing at best. I’ve found myself conflicted, often opting for leather where a brand communicates their ethics and is committed to sustainability, over synthetic, fossil-fuel derived alternatives. 

The leather industry has often been shrouded in secrecy - from hide sourcing through to the chemical tanning process. 

Brands like Deadly Ponies, Iriarte Iriarte and Nelson Made are embracing transparency however, lifting the lid on how they can best ensure ethical-sourcing, and reduce impacts - choosing to avoid PU/PVC faux-leathers altogether. 

Iriarte Iriarte have mitigated the environmentally taxing process of tanning leather, choosing instead to work exclusively with vegetable dyes to create their structural shapes and jewel-toned colour palette - think lush greens, deep reds and delectable caramel tones. 

Handcrafted in Barcelona, with limited runs of each curated piece and a bespoke, made-to-order offering; the brand prefers to champion individuality rather than mass-production. In a similar vein, New Zealand brand, Deadly Ponies, have purpose-built their own eco-atelier to challenge the industry status quo, rather than be at the bequest of traditional factories with a monopoly on manufacturing. 

Image: (left) Iriarte Iriarte, (right) Deadly Ponies 

“True transparency is all about knowledge and information. Nowadays, products deemed ‘non-leather’ can be viewed as a better alternative for the planet, and unfortunately that’s not always the case. There’s so much noise about what is ‘better’. I like to ask: 'Is it better for the people, the planet, the country of origin and their working conditions?' For me, it is about combining all those factors together and aiming to reach the best standard across them all,” says Liam Bowden, Co-Founder and Creative Director of premium leather goods brand, Deadly Ponies. 

Ever an opportunist, fast-fashion has openly embraced a move towards ‘vegan leather’. Remarketing their traditional, plastic-based handbags as sustainable and vegan. While the latter is not untrue, this title has muddied the work of brands trying to develop natural, plant-based solutions. 

Leather may be associated with the meat industry, but ultimately plastic alternatives will likely harm animals in the long run, leaching micro-plastics, releasing toxic fumes and waste, and endangering important habitats. 

The term ‘vegan’ is often brandished without any environmental commitment, and we often succumb to the belief that the alternative comes with a lower impact. 

Designed and handcrafted in Barcelona, the Jacques in green is created from full-grain Spanish cow’s leather and tanned with vegetable dyes. This unlined design features goldtone hardware and an adjustable strap so it may be worn over the shoulder or as a belt bag.
Your Jacques bag will bear a unique serial number, engraved logo and comes with a dust bag for storage.
Height – 19 cm / 7.4 in Width – 20 cm / 7.8 in Depth – 5 cm / 2 in
<meta charset="utf-8">EDITORS NOTES START
Each piece is individually crafted by hand at Carolina Iriarte’s Barcelona atelier, using traditional methods and natural materials.
The painstaking attention to the hand dyed hide, stitching, hardware details on each bag and accessory is evident: ‘It is only through dedicating time to every little detail that the solid and timeless style becomes tangible in each and every one of these pieces,’ the brand says. ‘Because time is something that can be bought and preserved.’
One of Iriarte Iriarte’s beautiful, timeless pieces is an investment in your forever wardrobe.
<meta charset="utf-8"> EDITORS NOTES END

Jacques Green Leather Bag

Designed and handcrafted in Barcelona, the <meta charset="utf-8">Agnès in ochre is created from full-grain Spanish cow’s leather and tanned with vegetable dyes. It features a cow’s leather lining and internal slip pocket, goldtone hardware and key for locking, and an adjustable leather strap so it may be worn over the shoulder or as a handbag.
 Your <meta charset="utf-8"> Agnès bag will bear a unique serial number, engraved logo and comes with a dust bag for storage.
 <meta charset="utf-8">Height – 15.5 cm / 6.1 in Width – 21 cm / 8.2 in Depth – 7 cm / 2.7 in 
 MATERIAL START
 100% Spanish cow leather
 MATERIAL END
 <meta charset="utf-8"> EDITORS NOTES START
 Each piece is individually crafted by hand at Carolina Iriarte’s Barcelona atelier, using traditional methods and natural materials.
 The painstaking attention to the hand dyed hide, stitching, hardware details on each bag and accessory is evident: ‘It is only through dedicating time to every little detail that the solid and timeless style becomes tangible in each and every one of these pieces,’ the brand says. ‘Because time is something that can be bought and preserved.’
 One of Iriarte Iriarte’s beautiful, timeless pieces is an investment in your forever wardrobe.
 <meta charset="utf-8"> EDITORS NOTES END

Agns Ochre Leather Bag

Designed and handcrafted in Barcelona, the Assemblage No.3 in red is created from full-grain Spanish cow’s leather and tanned with vegetable dyes. It features a cow’s leather lining, goldtone hardware, a large external front pocket, and an adjustable leather strap so it may be worn over the shoulder or as a handbag.
 Your Assemblage No.3 bag will bear a unique serial number, engraved logo and comes with a dust bag for storage.
 <meta charset="utf-8">Height – 20 cm / 7.8 in Width – 24 cm / 9.4 in Depth – 8.5 cm / 3.3 in 
 MATERIAL START
 100% Spanish cow leather
 MATERIAL END
 <meta charset="utf-8"> EDITORS NOTES START
 Each piece is individually crafted by hand at Carolina Iriarte’s Barcelona atelier, using traditional methods and natural materials.
 The painstaking attention to the hand dyed hide, stitching, hardware details on each bag and accessory is evident: ‘It is only through dedicating time to every little detail that the solid and timeless style becomes tangible in each and every one of these pieces,’ the brand says. ‘Because time is something that can be bought and preserved.’
 One of Iriarte Iriarte’s beautiful, timeless pieces is an investment in your forever wardrobe.
 <meta charset="utf-8"> EDITORS NOTES END

Assemblage No.3 Red Leather Bag

Douglas Black Leather Bag

For many years, leather has been associated with two identities. One of premium taste and appreciation for fine materials and craftsmanship, the other conjuring visions of PETA activists throwing buckets of fake blood in the fight to protect animals. Never have the two sides agreed; until recently. 

Premium brands Stella McCartney, Ganni and Deadly Ponies have each explored and developed their own, unique proposition to the vegan leather debate, presenting innovative mushroom, grape and cactus alternatives respectively in the last 18 months. A nutritious remedy for those yo-yoing between each side. 

But can vegan alternatives truly capture the texture of premium leathers? 

“In reality, it is like comparing wool pants to denim” says Bowden. “Vegan leather is different, so it will feel, touch, and wear differently too. It is important to understand that and appreciate it for the right reasons.” 

Finding the perfect composition can be a real art form, particularly trying to avoid the use of PU or PVC bonding to create a smooth, durable finish. 

“Our research phase lasted 18 months and saw us test a lot of different materials with a lot of different makers” Bowden continues. “We knew we didn’t want to compromise on the iconic, buttery soft texture that our Deadly Ponies products are known for, so we worked closely with our team to develop the perfect balance of soft and signature, yet sustainable.”

Image: (left) Ganni, (right) Stella McCartney 

I can attest to the tactility of cactus - the final product is surprisingly soft given its prickly origins. Crafted from mature cactus leaves in Mexico - a by-product of the pharmaceutical industry, the organic farm utilises only sunlight and natural rainfall to grow. Liam describes the innovation as having “changed the game” for the Deadly Ponies. 

Similarly, Danish brand Ganni, recently launched their grape leather. Crafting a capsule of eight shoes, the material is made with leftover grape skins from the Italian wine industry to produce a lush, sustainable alternative. A drop I can easily get behind. 

Hot on their tails, Stella McCartney unveiled her first foray into mushroom with a prototype showcasing the potential future of the brand. Mylo™ has been developed with innovative partners, Bolt Threads, creating a leather-like substance from mycelium; the intricate underground root structure of regenerative mushrooms. While not on the racks yet - it points to the importance of innovation in the leather industry and why we need to push the status quo. 

The past year has seen viable alternatives arrive in leaps and bounds, but the question remains; are we ready to break up with leather? 

With brands developing vegan-leather alternatives out of cacti, mushrooms and grape, are we breaking up with traditional leather for good? We consider the options, and explore whether they really are better.  

Mushroom, Grape and Cactus Are the New Vegan Leather Alternatives

Title

Jacques Black Leather Bag

Default Title

Designed and handcrafted in Barcelona, the Douglas in ochre is created from full-grain Spanish cow’s leather and tanned with vegetable dyes. It features a cow leather lining with a colourful splash effect, goldtone hardware and an adjustable leather strap so it may be worn over the shoulder or as a handbag.
Your Douglas bag will bear a unique serial number, engraved logo and comes with a dust bag for storage.
<meta charset="utf-8"> Height – 15cm / 5.9 in Width – 21.5cm / 8.4 in Depth – 7.5cm / 2.9 in
<meta charset="utf-8">EDITORS NOTES START
Each piece is individually crafted by hand at Carolina Iriarte’s Barcelona atelier, using traditional methods and natural materials.
The painstaking attention to the hand dyed hide, stitching, hardware details on each bag and accessory is evident: ‘It is only through dedicating time to every little detail that the solid and timeless style becomes tangible in each and every one of these pieces,’ the brand says. ‘Because time is something that can be bought and preserved.’
One of Iriarte Iriarte’s beautiful, timeless pieces is an investment in your forever wardrobe.
<meta charset="utf-8"> EDITORS NOTES END

Douglas Ochre Leather Bag

Colour

Agnes Green Leather Bag

Green

Cleo Black Leather Bag

Designed and handcrafted in Barcelona, the small wallet in red is created from full-grain Spanish cow’s leather and tanned with vegetable dyes. Hot-stamped with a goldtone logo, it features a card holder, coin pocket and metal clip.
<meta charset="utf-8">Height – 8.5 cm/ 3.34in Width – 10.5cm /4.1 in Depth – 1cm/ 0.4in
MATERIAL START
100% Spanish cow leather
MATERIAL END
<meta charset="utf-8">EDITORS NOTES START
Each piece is individually crafted by hand at Carolina Iriarte’s Barcelona atelier, using traditional methods and natural materials.
The painstaking attention to the hand dyed hide, stitching, hardware details on each bag and accessory is evident: ‘It is only through dedicating time to every little detail that the solid and timeless style becomes tangible in each and every one of these pieces,’ the brand says. ‘Because time is something that can be bought and preserved.’
One of Iriarte Iriarte’s beautiful, timeless pieces is an investment in your forever wardrobe.
<meta charset="utf-8"> EDITORS NOTES END

Red Leather Wallet

Your Next Leather Buy Could be Made of Mushroom 

Ever wondered if the colour of your clothing possesses the ability to alter your emotions? 

Science says it can. From femininity and masculinity to moods and cravings, the hues you choose have the power to evoke every type of feeling.

Colour plays a significant role in how we interact with the world around us. Particular hues tell us to go, to stop, and to wait. When we get dressed in the morning, we are also communicating a certain message. 

What we choose to wear can tell an intricate story of how we self-identify, and how we wish to be received by others. 

Humans have been fascinated by the inherent yet subliminal links between colour and psychological function for millennia. 

From way back in the late 1800s with Goethe’s Theory of Colours – where he links colour categories to emotional responses – all the way to the modern codification of colour used to exemplify status (think: the regality of crimson, the austerity of black) we can deduce that the colour of our outfits has the potential to act as a cognitive mood enhancer.

In a physical sense, science tells us that colours can change our heart rate, blood pressure, and respiration. 

When it comes to our emotions, statistics in the psychology of colour are often laden with anecdotal hunches, forced objectivity, and westernised persuasion. 

As a symbol deeply entwined in cultural rites and rituals; understanding the social-political universality of colour requires both context and nuance.

The concept of Dopamine Dressing - choosing clothing that lifts or alters your mood by sending messages to neurons in your brain that trigger a boost of dopamine, also known as the "happy hormone" - is not new by any stretch. 

But as the cloud of uncertainty of the pandemic slowly lifts, and following two years of spending our days in fleecy marle and exercise leggings - we have flung ourselves back into dressing for the world outside the confines of home and supermarket;  mood boosting sartorial choices are everywhere, from fashion week to the local salon where nail art is popping. 

In this new era, perhaps you wish to join us in taking a mindful approach to the hues of your clothing.

To get you started on your mood hue journey, we’ve collated a few pointers to help you find your feet.

As hue with significant prominence in nature, on the body, and in society, we can all agree that red brings out strong emotions. 

Wear it when you want to go bold, stand out in a crowd/on Zoom, or make a memorable impression (and perhaps avoid it when you want to try and get out of a parking ticket.)

As a hue renowned for absorbing all light on the colour spectrum, there is something deeply poetic about an all-black ensemble when you want to be perceived as powerful and authoritative. 

All while rendering the risk of a coffee spill as much less treacherous – something your crisp whites could never say.

A deeply refreshing and organic hue, green takes us back to nature. 

For the days when you’re yearning for a sense of harmony and peace (or to escape from your to-do list into a wild field of grass,) opt for timeless khaki knit or a juniper hoodie to balance your mind, body, and soul.

Although culturally polarising and political, in essence, pink is fresh, playful, and ultra-feminine. 

The perfect hue to wear when you’re looking to connect, charm, or inspire; or explain why you ‘didn’t get around to it’ at your next book club catchup.

Historically regarded as evoking feelings of passivity and lethargy, we find great comfort in the simplicity of this gentle hue. 

Effortlessly harmonious with almost everything in your wardrobe, and exceptionally light; it is versatile and trans seasonal.

Deeper shades of blue tend to shy away from peace and tranquility towards authority, dominance, and intelligence – making it the perfect sartorial armour for pitching to your partner that you simply must adopt a second German Shepard (or any other instance where you would like to exude confidence and trust.)

Like any mindful practice, contending with the role colour plays on your mood is all about creating space for small, intimate moments to self-care. 

So, ask yourself – what hue are you in the mood for today? 

Elliot, A. (2015). Color and psychological functioning: a review of theoretical and empirical work. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4383146/ 

Mood Hues: How the Colour of Clothing Affects How You Feel

While fast-fashion brands promote “conscious collections” with every drop, true sustainability is being heralded as the new frontier in fashion.

Instagram-born, made-to-order brands are challenging the new-age need for now, and slowing down the relentless pace of fast fashion. 

Thought to be first coined in 1989 in a New York Times article, describing Zara’s mission to bring clothing to life within 15 days; fast fashion has completely taken hold of the cultural zeitgeist. Plastered with ‘trending’ looks, next-day delivery and 50% off site-wide, it's no surprise we feel compelled to purchase now even more than ever.  

Armed and ready to launch a new collection at any moment, fast fashion has completely turned the industry upside down, altering consumer behaviour and the traditional mindset of the fashion world.  

On average, Australians purchase 27kgs of clothing each year, discarding 23kgs direct to landfill in the process - totalling over 800,000 tonnes of textile waste (Australian Bureau of Statistics). 

Rather than searching for a long term connection, it appears we are far more interested in a short term fling with our wardrobes. 

With many online retailers promoting weekly drops - some as many as 900 pieces each week - when will we put an end to the inevitable sartorial burnout? 

Could made-to-order be the solution to slow our habits and reconnect? 

Aiming to challenge our disposable society, made-to-order brands are on the rise, generating a renaissance for the fashion industry. Certainly not a new concept, the conscious model transports us to a more nostalgic time, where patience was a part and parcel in purchasing a new ensemble. 

Disrupting the fast fashion narrative, made-to-order allows for more sustainable and considered production, only crafting the exact amount ordered of each piece to completely minimise textile waste and garner demand. 

As a result of slow manufacturing, a number of brands also offer custom alterations, adapting and welcoming the increasing discourse surrounding size inclusivity as an integral conversation in sustainable realms.

Traditionally a form of empowerment and self-expression, fashion has long strayed from the beacon of creativity it once was. Made-to-order and ‘slow’ brands want to buck the trend,  aiming to reignite longevity and passion for every piece. 

Something to cherish and love, rather than toss after the first wear. 

Could the reward of waiting for something unique and intricate replace the short term dopamine fixes we so desperately seek from fast fashion?

A growing army of made-to-order Instagram supporters certainly point to the possibility. Limited edition, sustainable pieces are fast becoming the next ‘it’ thing, promoted by the likes of Emily Ratajkowski and Alyssa Coscarelli. 

Thanks to the power of social media, made-to-order brands can’t keep up with the pace, finding collections selling out as soon as order windows are launched. An ironic twist. 

Although fast fashion appears to reign supreme in mainstream circles, sustainability is increasingly becoming part of our collective vernaculars, a promising indication for change. 

According to Nielsen IQ, 48% of US consumers would definitely or probably change their consumption habits to reduce their impact on the environment. Shifting consumer mindset is on a positive path. 

Fashion giants are indeed adapting in a bid to join the movement and not be excluded from the conversation.

True transparency is still missing however, with complex supply chains and outsourced manufacturing clouding doubts on their intent. Could made-to-order be the shining light, or is our intrigue in the model purely nostalgia for slower times?  

Bringing overproduction and demand to the table, the model simplifies manufacturing, with a very clear premise; only crafting what is needed. It feels so obvious, so hopeful. Small, passionate brands are leading the new frontier, hailing across every corner of the globe and uniting in their cause to change the fashion industry for good. 

Discover a handful of committed brands leading the revolution, one personalised, slow piece at a time. 

Here to disrupt the current fashion cycle, Carnations is a London based, gender-neutral, made-to-order brand focusing on timeless, abstract pieces. The brand believes putting an end to overproduction is simple, stating “You tell us how many you want, we go and make them.” Founder and designer Sarah Bartlett began the brand with an interchangeable co-ord collection - a modern way to dress with personality, removing the complexities of dressing on trend. 

A New Zealand designed and made brand offering small, whimsical collections made-to-order over small windows throughout the year. Founder Frances Lowe sources fabrics locally, working with a handful of Auckland makers to craft her thoughtful designs. With unexpected detailing and timeless silhouettes, the brand offers customised sizing for every piece.  

Rising to Instagram fame virtually overnight, mother-daughter duo MaisonCléo have harnessed the power of the French Cool Girl, making the aesthetic even more aspirational through made-to-order. Using reclaimed couture fabrics, the brand is crafted by hand in their workroom in France, and opens orders every Wednesday to hot demand. With significant support for their mission, MaisonCléo have also collaborated with online giant Net-a-porter and historic Selfridges, and challenge the status quo by sharing the true cost of each piece with every order. 

Redefining quality, New Zealand designer Molly Perkinsons’ lustrously slinky designs are extremely limited, entirely customisable, and crafted by Molly herself in her small beachside studio. Sourced from vintage material and deadstock fabric, the brand aims not only to reduce overproduction, but fabric waste too, with her “Zero-Waste” dress, made cleverly by cutting her pattern into intricate square pieces. 

With nothing to hide, Australian brand, A.BCH aren’t afraid to tackle the bigger challenges typically allocated to the ‘too hard’ basket when it comes to sustainable supply chains. Crafting small batches from renewable or recycled materials in their Melbourne atelier, A.BCH strongly believe in making ethical clothing accessible, offering customisations on their designs and avoiding the traditional mark-up associated with premium fashion. Everything in their designs is carefully considered, right down to the buttons crafted from the seeds of fallen corozo fruit in Panama. 

The euphoria of finally receiving a truly unique piece intricately handmade over a number of weeks is an unparalleled feeling.

Falling madly, deeply in love with an item in your wardrobe is evermore powerful knowing it will last for years and was thoughtfully crafted. The rise of brands like Loclaire and MaisonCléo is promising, with countless followers sharing the joy of their creations. 

It is time to rediscover the power of clothing, and made-to-order looks to be the hopeful future. 

We investigate how a new breed of made-to-order brands are challenging the new-age need for now. Are you ready to overhaul your shopping habits? 

If there’s one person you go to for the perfect brows and lashes, it’s brow expert Kim Evans. 

Her much-loved business Lux Brows and Lashes, based in Melbourne’s Essendon, has been a popular pit stop for a swathe of local celebrities for over eight years.

But during the pandemic, an innovative pivot saw her new line of lash and brow beauty products take off, as Australians increasingly dabbled in at-home beauty care.

“I thought, well I’ve got to think outside the box – and I created a product range, purely brows and lashes,” Kim told me about launching her small, boutique brow and lash line. “I have about six products, but it covers everything.”

Since the launch, she’s seen the range grow in popularity, despite her clientele returning to the salon for in-person pampering. “I’m very lucky, I’ve got a great lot of clients that trust what I bring out.”

And when it comes to brows, trust is tantamount. As the ultimate face-framers, a tactfully sculpted brow can make or break your entire makeup look. 

So, we chatted to Kim about everything brow-related, from her top tips and best kept secrets, to the latest trends - including those questionable 90s skinny brows touted to make a comeback… suffice to say, as a natural brow enthusiast, her reaction was less than enthusiastic.

How would you define a natural-looking brow, and how can someone at home achieve this shape?

“Leave the top of the brow, the hair – don’t make that a perfect line. That top hair should be more natural looking, with a beautiful base that is really defined and sculpted. When the top of the brow is a really harsh, defined line – that’s when it starts to look a bit too fake.”

What’s the biggest mistake most people make when it comes to their brows?

“Everyone always chooses a brow powder that’s too dark. Everyone! I would say 90% of people, when I get them to look at the palette, and ask which colour they would choose, they always go too dark.”

“Always go softer. If you apply the powder in a lighter colour, you can apply more but get that fuller shape. If you apply a darker powder in the same way, they just look too heavy on your face.”

What’s the one key product that you would recommend for people to use to care for their brows?

“I would say, for that really natural look brow, a brow highlight pencil. That’s a white brow pencil – not an eyeliner, they’re different. A white pencil, it’s so understated – it really brightens and defines the shape.”

“It’s drawn underneath the baseline of the brow, and while it defines the brow shape, it also brightens your eyes. It makes the eyes pop. If I was to wear no makeup, I would just put brow soap and white highlight pencil – not mascara, not anything.”

“The best addition to your products at the moment is brow soap, because it lifts that hair at the base line, exposes that beautiful clean line that you’ve got, and gives you that soft fluffy brow look on the top.”

“You apply it with a spooli*. Some people like to dampen the brush to get a softer look. To get a more defined, more lifted look, don’t wet the brush.”

*Note: This is the spiral brush you find in mascara, also used for eyebrow maintenance.

What are your thoughts on the rise in the lamination trend?

“I love lamination, but not everyone can have it. Lamination creates a fluffier brow, and it contains the unruly brow hairs. What you can do if you’ve got the unruly, long or curled brow hairs, we can relax those hairs during the lamination.”

“But it does lift up from the base – so if you’ve got holes or gaps in the baseline of your brows, that will be revealed, so you’ll need to a brow defining pencil to build that baseline in. I think most people think they’re going to get this miracle, fuller brow, but don’t understand that the lift is coming from the base, which creates fullness.”

Lux Brows & Lashes White Highlight Pencil and Brush

What are your thoughts on the rumours that there will be a return to 90s skinny brows?

“Not much at all! I’m not quite sure who can pull it off… I’d be surprised if that comes back, because we’re embracing more of a natural makeup look as well at the moment.”

“If those follicles die during the process, it will never grow back. So if you pluck your brows that thin, consistently, potentially you could damage the follicle. It might never grow back.”

What is the brow stylist red flag we need to be looking out for?

“We do not cut the brow hair. We are more of a natural brow look – others will trim the brows to get the more solid, accurate line at the top of the brow. But just think about it – if you push your brow hair up, and then you chop that off, the brow hair naturally falls to the outer of the eye and then creates gaps and holes.”

Fresh from styling the fashionable faces of Melbourne's celebrity scene, brow stylist Kim Evans clues us up on the best insider tips and tricks for maintaining your brows.

High Brow: The Rules of Eyebrow Maintenance

Despite its long-standing resistance, luxury fashion has finally embraced the looming reality of a digital world, and with that, realised the online potential.  Amid the uncertainty and chaos of the last 18 months, fashion has found flourishing success online, but can digital transform the currently unparalleled in-store experience and certainty of purchasing in the flesh? 

Discovering unlimited products at the mere tap of a keyboard, we have had months to become comfortable shopping from bed, and fine-tuned our online prowess. An effortless dopamine fix, shoppers no longer need to brave the mall crowds to find the perfect wardrobe addition. 

While this might be well-suited to impulse, low-cost purchases - what does this mean for premium and luxury retailers who rely on the in-store experience as their point of difference? Can digital really become the pinnacle of fashion, or does it lack the human connection we desperately seek? 

Creating a personalised experience was once reserved only for top tier customers, or VIP’s. Now, thanks to a mix of artificial intelligence, automation, human-curated design and contact through the likes of Live Chat technology, we can experience entirely customised shopping at the click of a button. 

Digital-first brands like Glossier, Realisation Par and Pangaia set out to prove physical stores are, in reality, an accessory - not the retail cornerstone legacy brands believe they are. 

Exploring methods to enhance every touchpoint, online brands have reached dizzying heights, proving collection launches can be delivered entirely through cultivated communities, considering email and social media channels first.

Social media has swiftly become the flagship store for many brands, generating awareness, connection and accessibility like never before.

We are now able to directly ‘tap to shop’ a piece that has caught our attention amid scrolling, and add to cart within a matter of seconds. No longer needing to scour stores for a piece we've admired in print editorial, instead, we now have the power to instantly recreate an ensemble from the palm of our hand. Content creators shoot endless lookbooks of curated outfits, immediately grabbing our attention and elevating the product experience beyond mannequins and hangers. 

It’s not just gifted clothing influencers are wearing either, with brands beginning to explore social media promotion through intricately designed 3D rendors, allowing for more content, without the need for wasteful product unboxings - changing the face of PR sampling. 

However, many still believe digital is disconnected to the tactile reality of shopping in person, with the inability to try and touch a barrier for greater growth. Facebook disagrees. 

The dominating platform suggests social media will completely transform the way we shop in the future, firmly investing in virtual technology to bring the fitting room home. 

While AI fitting rooms have been trialled by big names such as ASOS and The Iconic, the technology has been out of reach for smaller, local brands. 61% of shoppers want to embrace virtual try-ons at home, confident in the power of augmentation and AI technology with the rise in eerily realistic Tiktok and Instagram filters. 

Innovative brands tend to agree, dipping their toes into the technology and exploring a world beyond in-person discovery, most notably with the likes of Balenciaga launching their Fall ‘21 collection through a bespoke video game (pictured below).

While social media and virtual reality may be taking the fashion industry by storm, there's nothing quite like trying a new piece on. Feeling the quality of fabric against your fingertips, and slipping into a silhouette that transforms your confidence. 

Luxury brands understand this instant connection like no other, having carefully harnessed an environment to foster love at first sight. But with shoppers hesitant to return to stores, premium brands need to get creative to fulfill the rush of endorphins we’ve come to expect. 

Partnering with London-based brand, Shrimps, newcomer Harper Concierge believe they have the solution to deliver unparalleled luxury online, introducing a courier concierge 'try before you buy' service at home, with a personal stylist on hand. 

Payment is only taken for the pieces you want to keep, and means you can try each item on in the comfort of your own home, alongside your existing wardrobe. 

The VIP concierge try-before-you-buy service entirely removes the hassle of returning unwanted or ill fitting items, and allows you to try on multiple pieces and sizes just as you would in-store - minus the hoards of shoppers and unflattering fitting room lighting.

The past 2 years have created significant challenges for retail, however brands who have fully immersed themselves into the possibilities of a digital-first world have flourished. 

This time apart has provided us with space to rethink the way we shop, and to connect and become comfortable with a new, much more virtual experience. 

Will luxury join the future, or stay stuck in the past?  

AI fitting rooms and home try-on concierges are being heralded by some brands as the future, but can digital really change the way we shop for the better? A report by Mollie Rofe.

Immerse yourself in a world of self love, self care, and self expression. 

We seek out  like-minded brands - big and small - and carefully select the products  from their offering which will best serve you. The result is a  considered curation of what we believe to be the best tools to nourish  your inner and outer self, and enrich your world.

Free standard shipping on Swedish orders over *

EXPLORE

Express

Express

Express who you want to be.

Noteworthy

N.C.P.

Sener Besim

Flavedo & Albedo

N.C.P.

Oribe

Sener Besim

Ere Perez

Kevin Murphy

Ere Perez

Ere Perez

Sener Besim

Hot Tools

Sener Besim

N.C.P.

EXPRESS

How to Curate a Considered Capsule Wardrobe

Shop

The Express Collection

Explore our curation of products to play and experiment with self expression

Express

Want to Try the Painterly Eye Look? Here's How

Read More

Noteworthy Reads

Express

The Future of Fashion is Genderless

Read more

Express

Your Next Leather Buy Could be Made of Mushroom

Read more

express

Mood Hues: How the Colour of Clothing Affects How You Feel

Read more

Express

The New Order

Read more

Express

High Brow: The Rules of Eyebrow Maintenance

Read more

Express

Is the Fitting Room Dead?

Read more