How to Curate a Base Skincare Routine

THE BUILDING BLOCKS OF HEALTHY SKIN

While very few things within the realm of beauty should be deemed “essential” (more on that later), there are a handful of items that do form the building blocks of healthy skin. The foundation of your skin routine, a routine that you can build upon, are as follows...

A CLEANSER

Without effectively cleansing your skin, any other products you choose to apply won’t be able to absorb into the epidermis as designed. Cleansing works to remove dirt, bacteria and excess oil from the surface of the skin (and from within the pores, to an extent) that can build up throughout the course of the day and overnight. 

Consider makeup removal a separate step to cleansing. If you are wearing makeup, or a particularly heavy sunscreen formula, throughout the day, cleanse twice: the first time to remove makeup, the second time to properly remove that oil and bacteria.

Many dermatologists agree that cleansing is only completely necessary in the evening. Determining whether or not a morning cleanse is right for you is, unfortunately, a matter of trial and error - for some, it can actually be of detriment to the skin barrier. 

Pay attention to how your skin feels after cleansing. If it feels particularly dry and tight, your skin may benefit from skipping future morning cleanses. A micellar solution, rather than a traditional cleanser, can serve as a happy halfway point between cleansing and not. Cleansing is the first step of a good skincare routine.

AN EXFOLIANT

Exfoliating the skin is the process of removing dead, dry and dull cells from the surface of the skin and blockages from within the pores, leaving you with a fresh, bright, clear complexion- consider it the deep clean of your routine.

There are two primary modes of exfoliation you can choose between- manual/physical or “chemical.” Physical exfoliants are products like scrubs that contain tiny grains that work to manually slough away dead and dry skin.

Chemical exfoliants are fluids containing alpha-hydroxy acids or beta-hydroxy acids (AHAs and BHAs), and in some cases both, that are designed to be applied to the skin to dissolve those cells and blockages.

AHAs are generally recommended for those with typically dry skin, while BHAs are advised for those with oily and acne prone skin. Chemical exfoliants are, in general, gentler on the skin barrier than their physical counterparts.

Exfoliation is not an essential step,  as our body is constantly turning over new cells without the assistance of skincare, but working an exfoliating step into your routine once or twice at most per week can help to speed the cell renewal process up in some skin types. An exfoliant is to be applied after your cleansing step. 

AN EYE CREAM

Another point of contention, many believe eye-specific skincare is unnecessary and that its benefits are the same as those seen when regular moisturisers and serums are simply applied to the eye area.

For many, targeted eye creams are necessary to really deliver hydration to the fine skin around the eyes, given that this skin doesn’t produce oil in the same way as the rest of the face. Eye creams can be of benefit to those who experience fine lines and dryness, and should be applied after serums and before moisturisers. 

A MOISTURISER

Even if your skin is typically oily, a moisturiser will work to regulate the skin’s moisture levels, strengthen the skin barrier and, with time, improve its ability to hold onto hydration. 

When the skin barrier is impaired, your skin can grow prone to inflammation, irritation and even acne. A simple moisturiser, in a formula as thick or as fluid as feels comfortable for your skin, will allow you to strengthen the skin’s barrier and ensure it is functioning at its healthiest. 

In the evening, moisturiser should be applied as the final step of your skincare routine. In the morning, and in the mornings, it should be the second last step before sunscreen.

SUN PROTECTION

Sunscreen should be worn daily in order to protect your skin from superficial damage like sunspots and collagen damage, and from serious skin conditions such as melanoma. When choosing a daily sunscreen, look for an SPF of 30 at a minimum with UVA and UVB (broad spectrum) protection, as UVA can penetrate both clouds and glass and is present year round.

As a rule of thumb, if you’re in a space that is light enough to read in without having to turn on a light, you are being exposed to UV. While this rule of thumb can be helpful, I personally choose to ignore it... by getting into the habit of applying sunscreen every single day, you are leaving far less room for error and miscalculation than you would be if you relied on checking or gauging UV levels each day. 

Make SPF a habit. 

It’s important to remember that sunscreen is only one element of sun protection. Consider hats, protective clothing and shade when planning a day outdoors. Sunscreen should be the final step in your daytime skincare routine.