Is Retinol Really the Secret to Beautiful Skin?

What is retinol and what can it actually do for the skin?

Retinol is an over-the-counter derivative of Vitamin A, also known as Vitamin A1. For retinol to “work” on the skin, it must go through a conversion process from retinol to retinoic acid, which is the form of retinol that is bioavailable to the skin.

This is a natural conversion process performed by the enzymes found in our own skin.

We’re told that the topical use of retinol can reduce the visible signs of ageing, can fill out fine lines and wrinkles, fade age spots, treat acne and improve the overall texture of the skin- but what can it actually do? 

The beauty of retinol is that it can, and has been proven to, achieve all of that at once.

Our skin naturally “sheds” dead and dry skins on a 28 day turnover process naturally. Retinol has the ability to enhance that natural turnover process, speeding up the cycle. 

So how does that manage to assist with both ageing and acne? In a few ways.

Acne is the result of clogged pores, and increased cell turnover means we’re shedding any cells that may be clogging the pores quicker than we otherwise would.

Retinol also decreases the function of overactive oil glands, balancing the skin’s natural oil production for skin that looks clearer and pores that appear smaller and tighter. 

That enhances cell turnover also boosts the skin’s natural production of collagen, which is how (and why!) retinol can give the skin a fuller, firmer, bouncier appearance.

Retinol also slows the production of the enzyme that breaks down collagen and elastin in the skin, working to smooth the skin’s surface and “fill out” fine lines and wrinkles.

Retinol, despite being an antioxidant, also has an almost “exfoliant” quality on the skin (as it thins the outermost layer of the skin while thickening the inner layers), leaving it appearing brighter and more even in tone, with dark spots and pigmentation appearing faded with consistent use. 

How to work retinol into your beauty routine

There are a number of “rules of thumb,” so to speak, that will make working retinol into your skincare routine that bit more seamless.

The first is your age. There is no true rule as to what age you can begin using retinol at, however most dermatologists agree that in your 20s is a great time to start in order to treat acne and prevent the depletion of collagen and elastin that comes naturally with age.

The exception is teenagers with particularly acne-prone skin, although in those instances a dermatologist will likely prescribe a concentration of tretinoin rather than an over-the-counter retinol solution. 

When it comes to choosing a physical product with retinol in it to work into your routine, your options will likely come down to a serum or a moisturiser. If you are brand new to retinol, I would recommend using a moisturiser with retinol in it (noting, however, that I am an educated consumer and not an expert).

I make this recommendation as, in my experience, moisturisers with retinol in them also usually contain really hydrating, soothing ingredients (think hyaluronic acid and ceramides) that work to counteract the potentially drying or irritating effects of retinol (a result of the ingredient slightly “thinning” the epidermis). A gentle, low-percentage (around 0.2%) retinol serum is also a great option for those new to the ingredient.

Beyond dryness and irritation, “purging” is a common side effect of first-time retinol use - this sees the skin have a temporary break out, with deep rooted blemishes rising to the surface of the skin as the cell turnover process initially speeds up.

To combat all of these side effects, I’ve found “buffering” my retinol to be the most effective solution for my skin (and is something I recommend all first-time retinol users try for themselves).